Waiting, waiting, waiting

Felix is still not too well. Well the morning has arrived, let’s see if we can go ashore.
 

30th May 1999
 

Odo	47 961.6km
Co-ords	sorry none taken
Fuel	none

No entry in diary today

31st May 1999
 

Odo	48 332.6km
Co-ords	N 19 29 37.6 E 33 23 36
Fuel	20 L  48 205.2km from reserve

No entry in diary today

1st June 1999
 

Odo	48 923km
Co-ords	N 14 02 44.3 E 33 23 17.3
Fuel	none

Well 3 days have passed since my last entry and you find me very worried. We have bad news from the Ethiopian embassy.

But first this.

We got off the boat at about 11 and finally finished all formalities at about 5 that afternoon. Getting off the boat was a major pain too. The barge was just nosed up to the beach with ramps put down. Needless to say, the Kombi’s approach angle meant it having to be lifted, by men, of the boat.. We did not have that problem but the digging in the beach left a very soft spot and as our back wheel got off the boat onto the beach it went in to the ssand, right up to the body. Hi-lift jack out to build it up again (hi-lift jack point broke) and low range out.

Wadi Halfa. Well, what can I say. We had loads of tea (everyone wants to give you tea) and all our paperwork slowly got done. By 4 we were doing money declarations. The customs official spoke very good English, he is also the local tourist officer.

As Renee said at the time, it’s very, very sad. The original Wadi Halfa was destroyed by the rising waters of Lake Nasser. It was a very popular place for Nile cruises to call in and had a thriving tourist industry. Today it’s a hellhole on a very dusty plain with nothing going for it. The hotels which were rebuilt are either closed or in a state of ruin due to the new flood level. What’s sad about it is that the people are genuinely nice and will give you everything they have even though they have nothing. The tour man come customs spent the whole day with us. He even took us to meet his family, a live crocodile, his stone and scorpion collection and then took us 1.5 km out of town to show us the road and walked home. I just wish there was something we could do for him.

The hard part was to come. We had 3 days to get to Khartoum to register. We were told it would be OK – just follow the railway line and then 300km before Khartoum you get to a tar road.

7km later the Kombi is stuck in the sand. Took us about 15min to dig it out and we decided to spend the night right there.

I’m glad we could do so in the car because the dust was everywhere. We tried to put up the tent but no luck. Too windy. I slept really badly, we had over 600km of desert to cross and in our first 7km we had to dig. Oh well.

We started very early the next day (about 6am) and headed off. The Swiss guys decided to drive on the railway line but that’s hell. It shakes the shit out of you. Soon we were on the desert sand. The truck goes very, very well too but I was extremely nervous. The car swerves around like a fish. I finally found that 3rd gear at about 2500RPM was good (60km/h). Whenever the sand got really soft we powered our way to the railway line.

We got stuck once, more due to my error than the car. But after 10min digging we got going again. That was the last time we had a problem, not so the Kombi. That day we dug, pulled or pushed it out a few times never really taking too long to do it. We got to the end of the railway line, actually where the ‘road’ splits from the line and started on the piste. It was nearly dark so we stopped for another sleep after 13hours of exhausting desert driving. I have learnt a lot today, not least is that the truck is bloody good on sand.

The next morning we were woken at 4:30 by the Swiss guys. They were still on Egypt time and thought it was 5:30. Oh well. The piste is really not a road but a line through the desert marked, not always regularly, by concrete pillars about a metre tall. In places the flat sand extends 2 or 3km sideways from these pillars so it is very hard to make sure you are still on the right route. We used the GPS compass to make sure we were at least going in the right direction. I also plotted a route for future reference.

This was true desert and it is fucking hard going. At places the sand was like talcum powder. Needless to say, we dug. Not us, the Kombi. We did not get stuck at all though I must confess to have been very, very worried all the time.

When the Kombi got stuck it got real stuck. Most of the time out of towing range too, I did not want to risk both of us getting caught in it. I have never worked so hard. At times I thought we would have to abandon the Kombi but by using all 4 sand ladders and brute strength we dug it out. We had to sometimes move it tens of metres from sand ladder to sand ladder. Once we even emptied it out and got it over 200m away and then had to carry over 200kg of kit back to it over the hot dunes. Now when I read about non-4x4’s’s making it across deserts I will always think of who helped. They wouldn’t have made it without us. The truck went well. I learned a lot and did not get stuck once. I worked hard but did well.

We finally got to the tar road at about 6pm and still had 300km to go. I was absolutely fucked so Renee drove. We broke the don’t drive at night rule again but just could not stop. We had to get to Khartoum by 1/6/99. The road was OK. Narrow but well tarred and with not too much traffic. The Kombi hit and killed a dog but it was unavoidable.

We met our first police check just before Khartoum which made a change from Egypt but is also odd in a country at war. They insisted on seeing our travel permits, which of course we did not have as we were heading to Khartoum for them. After a bit of talking we were allowed to go.

We had decided to stay at a nice hotel so opted for the Meridian. At $132 a night it was a major disappointment. Dirty, poor quality everything. Bad all round for the price except the people were of course very friendly. We arrived at 10pm and after dinner got to bed after midnight 110% knackered. The shower was a major experience, our first wash in a week. Had to shampoo my hair three times before it stopped running brown. Oh well. Good night.

Slept OK, had another shower. Feels good! Had my first shave in a few days, which really felt good. Breakfast was buffet and Renee ate lots. It is good to see that she is well again.

Today (1/6/99) was a day of real problems. We went to the aliens’ registration office and after getting a photocopy of our passports (on site), going back to the hotel for a stamp and paying for a revenue stamp we finally got registered. Not a bad process, takes about 30min. Then we started with travel permits. Same office issues the forms (3 per person and 4 photos) then off to some securities place for a stamp, which we can collect at 12 tomorrow.

Next Ethiopian visa. This is where we were dealt a huge blow. They are not issuing visas for land crossings to Ethiopia from Sudan. Fuck, fuck, fuck , fuck. I had phoned 1 week before leaving Madrid and they assured me that the border was open. The guy was adamant that they could not issue visas to us. I begged and pleaded and finally got an appointment with the consul tomorrow at 11. Hell I do not know what we will do if we cannot get into Ethiopia by land. Really and truly fucked. This is one thing I was not expecting – let’s pray that tomorrow brings a solution.

Next we tried to find a South African embassy. There isn’t one but we think that Kenya represents South Africa here. Who knows, we have an appointment to see the Kenyan consul tomorrow at 10.

Stress levels are very high. I am not sure what we will find tomorrow. Options are going back to Egypt, finding a ship in Port Sudan or finding a truck that will go to Ethiopia with our car on it. We will then fly. We went for dinner on the edge of the Blue Nile. It was quite nice but we couldn’t really relax. Off to sleep to see what goes tomorrow. Praying to anyone who will listen for help.
 

2nd June 99
 

Odo	48 930.1km
Co-ords	N 14 02 44.3 E 33 23 17.3
Fuel	none

We visited the Kenyans at 10am but they could not help us. I phoned the ministry of external affairs and there is presently no one in Sudan representing South Africa. Oh well, if the Ethiopians really need a letter of introduction we will bloody well forge them.

Next stop is the Ethiopian Embassy. We were allowed to see the 1st secretary and he told us that the Ethiopian government had issued a directive that they were not to issue visas for land crossings. He said he would gladly give us a visa if we go by air and would even give us one if we have a one way ticket. He gave us a name of a shipping agent we could see to help with the cars. So no go. What on earth to do. Not much.

As this appointment was late, we had to wait and watched army guys dancing on TV. We could not do much else because everything closed. It’s really frustrating.

The plan is to look for a shipper, to get an airline ticket, to change our travel permit application to include Port Sudan. We went to the security police only to be told to come back tomorrow because the man with the second stamp is not in today. Oh well, tomorrow then.
 

3rd June 99
 

Odo	48 932.7km
Co-ords	N 14 02 44.3 E 33 23 17.3
Fuel	none

Another day of problems. We cannot find any shipping agent in Khartoum that goes to Djibouti. They all go North to Suez. We have decided to get our visa and go to the border pleading ignorance.

We did succeed in getting photo permits (free) at the department of tourism. We also got some tourist brochures on Sudan, which was a surprise. We filled in new travel permit forms (4 photos again) and took them off to the security police. A surprise awaited us in that the man with the stamp was in and we got the first application back. We have Sudanese permission to cross the Ethiopian border. But as always, come back tomorrow for the other one – only thing is, tomorrow is Friday so only come back Saturday.

We visited Ethiopian airlines and booked tickets to Addis (one way $232 each) with full flexibility, even able to cancel. The first secretary had said that 1 way would be OK. So we could not do much else as once again we ran out of workday. This is getting me down.

Not feeling too good today. Have diarrhea and a sore stomach. Hopefully it’s not going to be too debilitating. Went to a riverside restaurant for supper and then the Hilton for drinks (non-alcoholic) and air-conditioning.

Tomorrow is a day off though we don’t really want it. We will visit some of Khartoum.
 

4th June 99
 

Odo	48 932.7km
Co-ords	N 14 02 44.3 E 33 23 17.3
Fuel	none

Well it’s 5:30pm and it’s been a long day. I got the inside of the car sorted out and cleaned with the help of Augistino who I met outside the Meridian on our first night here. I decided to use help firstly to keep the beggars away and secondly because he is a nice guy. I also had the joints greased. A guy walks around with a grease gun offering to do it, so I let him. 5000whatsits. Renee did loads of washing too.

We decided to find the Omdurman town and look at some markets and take some photos. We found some markets, not sure if it was the one we were looking for, and had a walk around. A tea lady invited us for tea, which we had, and when we offered to pay for it, she said that we were invited as her guests. She was a very nice, called Fatia and spoke very good English. We will go back again and this time pay.

We then went back to Pizza Hot to find food but everything was closed. In fact all the restaurants are closed. We next visited the May Park (entrance 500Whatsits each) which is very popular with locals. We had a drink but decided not to buy food as it is all pre-made. My stomach is better but still sensitive so I don’t want to risk it.

Next stop Hilton (right next to the park) to buy postcards, the only ones we have seen in Sudan but the kiosk was also closed. Will go again later. We met Felix and Alfons there enjoying the coolness too.

We bought fruit and bread for lunch and came back to the hotel for a siesta. There is no electricity in the city and so air-conditioning either. It’s pretty hot too.  Not much else to write. I’m feeling pretty itchy right now and want to get moving again but there is no chance of that for at least a few days. We have been checking email each night and have heard from Robert but no one else. It gets a little lonely not knowing how everyone is. OK, I’ll write more later tonight.

So, we bought and wrote our postcards. Had the rest of the fruit for dinner and went to bed. Not much happening today, fingers crossed for tomorrow.
 

5th June 99
 

Odo	48 932.7km
Co-ords	N 14 02 44.3 E 33 23 17.3
Fuel	none

First stop was to pick up Felix’s currency declaration from Ethiopian air and then to go to the bank. We changed $150. It took us about 45min to change the money and in the end I got $200 worth and Felix only $150 (he changed the $200). We did sort it out but I was hoping the bank would not remember how much it had given me. Not a chance.

Then it was off to the computer shop to write introductory letters for ourselves and to make copies of them. Renee has Intellution letterhead paper and I have Alcatel envelopes. Hopefully the embassy won’t need more.

Yet another blow. The Ethiopian embassy is closed on Saturday but open on Sunday. So we need to go back again tomorrow. Hell but its stressful stuff.

Off to the Security police for permission to travel to Port Sudan if the need arises. Another long hot wait in the container that doubles as a reception area. Eventually they called me in, changed the allowed stay time to one week (we had asked for three) and gave me a stamp. Then told me to go next door for another one. All the people next door were sitting on the floor in the dark eating and told me to put the form on the desk and go and wait some more. I did just that, didn’t have much choice really. I got called back in again and told to bring our travel permits that we had been issued two days ago. Panic – please don’t cancel them. No, they decided that they would simply add Port Sudan on to them. OK, good idea. After another long conversation between the reclining eaters (not me – no speak arabi) he eventually told me that there is a war on and our request to go to Port Sudan has been refused. Oh.  I did speak to the first stamp guy again and he said maybe next week. The war is 30years old so what can change by next week is anyone’s guess. I think the food-eating stamp guy just could not be bothered to get up and do his job. Now we have no choice but to head for the Ethiopian border and try to get through, we can’t try for a boat in Port Sudan even if we wanted to.

Back to the hotel for a siesta, not much else to do.
 

6th June 99
 

Odo	48 932.7km
Co-ords	N 14 02 44.3 E 33 23 17.3
Fuel	60 L  48 932.7km from reserve

A day of luck – finally. First stop the Ethiopian embassy. We met Mr. Bahri (the famous 1st secretary) again and he told me to wait. After about 45 min (very stressful minutes) someone collected our passports and started checking that we had everything. Hearts beating wildly at this point. No questions asked, he started filling out a big book with our details, and asked us to pay $25 each (the Swiss had to pay a huge $63 each) and told to come back at 2pm. Surely this was it.

We also met two Canadians at the embassy who were also trying to apply for an overland visa. You must be joking. They were told the same thing as us of course. We meet them tonight for dinner so will know more of their travels then.

We decided to do some tourist things during the wait and went first to the Natural History museum (1000 whatsits). It really is run down. There are kids poking sticks through the cages at baboons and all the displays are covered in a thick layer of dust. They have lots of stuffed animals but must lack the funds to keep it going. This is what Sudan is like, everyone trying hard (it is not as filthy as Cairo for example) but they just do not have the money to really get down to it.

Then off to the souk. I was looking for some coffee makers as souvenirs. The market is very busy and actually not badly stocked. There are lots of beggar kids everywhere (not allowed to take photos) who hang on to you. One little girl was constantly asking me for money and when I turned round to her and asked her to give me money, she did! She could not have been more than 5 years old. I had to give her more than double what she gave me. It is very sad but in the end you have to ignore them. Actually the adults in the markets help you by gently removing them (physically) from where they are clinging to you.

I did get what I was looking for. People thought I was a little odd not wanting the coffee but the vessel it came in! Next stop, back to the embassy. Wait, wait, wait and YES, passports with visas. They have no restrictions on them as where to enter Ethiopia so tomorrow we hit the road. Off to the Hilton to celebrate, ice cream sundaes all round. The Canadians were also at the embassy and had also bought an open one way ticket. The odd thing is that Ethiopian air refused to sell them one and they had to  go to a regular travel agent. I see that gap closing fast.

Anyway, I did a last quick check on the car. It has a slight oil leak (drops) but I can’t find where from. Hopefully we do not have the same shit as in Tunisia, remember. I filled the fuel tank from 4 Jerries and that’s it, let’s go. Tonight we go for supper with the Swiss and the Canadians.

It was a good supper at a great restaurant. It has quite a good menu too. It’s called the City Rose Restaurant and was walking distance from the hotel. The Canadians are doing their whole trip using public transport – hell. Sometimes I think that it’s easier but they have much more time – and they need it! Their names are Pierre and Celine. They will mail us later to see if we made it to Ethiopia.
 

7th June 99
 

Odo	48 932.7km
Co-ords	N 14 02 44.3 E 33 23 17.3
Fuel	none

Today we travelled the 414km to Gedaref. The road is pretty bad for the first 150km but after Wad Medani it’s quite good. We seem to be getting into sub-Saharan Africa (about time too). There are grassy plains and the houses are thatched rondawel types.

We met a few police checkpoints. No one objected when we indicated that we were going to Ethiopia, our travel permit starts and ends in Khartoum which we did not ask for, we actually specifically stated that we were going to Ethiopia. Hopefully no one sends us back. I’ll crack that’s for sure. Though I must say it would be impossible to travel this road without permits. The police sign on it each time you enter and leave a town, village or district.

Gedaref is fairly large but only has 3 hotels the Motwakil, City and Amir. We first went to the Motwakil and they told us it was 148000 for two doubles. That’s about $62 which is a lot considering what we were paying in Khartoum. We went to the others to see what was available but were politely told ‘no rooms, go to the Motwakil’. The others were very much cheaper and catered for Sudanese. I think that when they saw Renee they decided they were full. I had read about it but did not think it happened. We also fucked up a bit. We filled all the tanks – 43gallons (4.5l/gallon) at 2500/gallon, this took most of our remaining money, we even borrowed some from Felix. We were a bit shocked by the hotel price but the boss accepted USD (at a very bad rate for us of course) so it was OK. Next time I’ll know I suppose.

So know it’s the last 150km to Ethiopia. We’re all praying like mad that we get through. Another irony is that we hit our first ‘impassable in bad weather’ roads tomorrow and guess what, it’s bloody raining. Shit, shit, shit, we just get out of the sand and now mud. I hope not. Good night, an early 5:30 start tomorrow morning.